Elf Armor Templates
Here you can find the templates I made for my own armor. Now, I'm working from limited references, so some of this could be inaccurate - always do your own research to make sure this conforms to your standards of accuracy! Also, I am a lightly-built female, so make sure you scale these patterns to your size and shape.
The shoulder bell pattern is an exact copy from Julia's pattern, and the helmet pattern has only been slightly altered. Full credit for those pieces goes to Julia, thank you for letting me post these scans!
There are 7 scans. You will want to make 2 of each scan (left and right sides) except for scan 7, of which you will only need one. These scans should all be proportional to each other, but will need scaling to your size. The original size of each scanned sheet was 12 by 18 inches (the size of a large fun-foam sheet.
The abbreviations stand for:
H - Helmet
These template are made specifically for my fun-foam method. There are bits that might not make sense to another method.
Better tutorials should be forthcoming eventually, but in the meantime, here are some quick assembly instructions.
Shoulder and Hip/Leg Armor
The shoulder and leg armor are ready to go. In each case, the numbers go from the top piece down - you should be able to figure them out on your own.
The helmet is basically assembled as laid out in Julia's helmet assembly page, except for my modified crown piece (altered to suit the fun foam medium). To make the crown piece, lay the pieces over each other in the numbered order, with each piece covering half the piece before it. When glued together, this should give you a long ridged piece to use as the crown of your helmet.
Chest armor is a bit complicated. Refer to Julia's chest armor page while reading this explanation.
C1-B is the back and C1-F is the front of the bottom chest layer. These should be glued together along the seam (each piece has one flat side with a sort of notch, those should mesh together pretty neatly, that's your seam). Glue a small strip of foam along the back of the seam of extra stability. If you have a piece of foam big enough to make this seamless, great!
Once you get those attached together, you should be able to see the basic shape of your chest armor. If you touch the ends of the two long protrusions together, overlapping slightly, that gives you your arm-hole.
That's your armor base. The rest of the pieces are decorative.
C-2 and C-3: If you look at Julia's chest armor diagrams, you should see a piece that she has circled in red - that's C-3. C-2 goes directly under C-3 (you should be able to match them up perfectly along one side). C-2 provides the area neckwards of C-3 that is outlined in black.
Ridges: I still haven't quite figured this out yet, actually. You could possibly use some sort of modeling compound to sculpt the ridges. ALternately, you could try using more foam. In that case, take a whole sheet of foam. Don't cut it yet - instead, pinch and heat-form ridges into it. Now lay it on top of the base you've made with C1-F and C1-B. Now set C-2 in it's spot (don't glue it yet, you just need it as a guideline). Trim away the excess foam on your ridgy piece so that its edge is even with the edge of the base, and so that it butts up neatly against C-2 without overlapping. Now put C-3 over C-2, and you're done.
The complicated bit is A-2/A-3. So here, we start off with A-2:
Glue A-3 directly ON TOP OF A-2, so that all edges mesh up:
Now, as noted above, you need to heat your A-2/A-3 piece and, where the piece is only one layer thick, press A-2 into the gap left by A-3 so that you end up with a piece with a smooth curved indent in it (see Julia's armor pic here www.thedentedhelmet.com/guri/elvenwarriors/armor/wristguards/dryingclay2.jpg for reference on what I mean).
Now for final assembly, put your A-2/A-3 piece on top of A-1. A-4 and A-5 sort of 'float' to one side on the leather underlayer.